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Can mods get avatars to stand upright? I presently struggle with getting my picture upright and would like it so.


I just noticed you changed your Avatar. Good, the last one always me feel uneasy. Must be my inner "Monk".:)
The new one still has me cocking my head tho..
 

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Are you asking what stands up with pills? Or my avatar?


My last MWD is the avatar.. Good dog but he didn't need any pills to stand up. At all. Good dog tho.

they have pills for that :), what the heck is that thing anyhow
 

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Hell, If I knew anything about avatars I'd have one.
:-k........The pretty blue one in that movie would be nice to have. 8-[ :-#
 

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Hey, i have a question about searching in a building for a suspect. Police work. I am training with a friend who is with the police. She has a mal of 16 months and wants to learn the dog searching for persons behind closed doors. The dog must bark at the door where the suspect is behind. Is here anybody who is experience in this sort of work? Do you teach the dog first box work? Thx.
My method is different than normal but it is super easy and extremely effective. I always build hunt first and for most in any type of detection, building search for people is basically detection!!!
That being said I build the hunt having the dog use his nose first and foremost. Typically most imported dogs already know or should know how to search for a ball/reward. SO, I start with the hall in my facility with 6 doors off the hall, and the doors closed. I start by holding the dog by the collar and start giving my announcements (at least 3X as required by courts). I have the lights in the hall dimmed, and tease the dog just a bit with the ball and toss it down the hall and allow the dog to retrieve it. I repeat this several times so the dog knows what is required.
I then place 2 balls and well scented article’s of clothing behind the doors ( I installed the doors so they swing out). I again hold the dog by the collar giving the announcements and act like I toss the ball down the hall.
As soon as I see a change in behavior on the correct door I then reward the dog with a ball that I throw and have land at the bottom of the correct door.
This teaches the dog to 1 use its nose not its eyes during the search, 2 the dog is not over stimulated by seeing and hearing a decoy 3 adds in the actual command the dog will key off of later on the street 4 adds in some control from the start.
I repeat this (normally only 4 to 6 times is required before the dog uses his nose without tossing a ball to direct him). The second and maybe the third time I use the same door (build confidence), after that I move the 2 balls and scented items back and forth moving down the hallway.
MAKE SURE air is flowing out of the rooms and not being sucked into them!!!!!!
Once the dog will check each door on his own, I start delaying the reward ball until the dog barks/scratches or bites at the dog. This just builds off the earlier experience ( most dogs will bark when they are frustrated and you may teach barking for the ball separate during bonding time)
Now I add in a decoy, I have the decoy sit against the door (initially then moving further back) now that the dog knows (associates human odor with a reward) they show a change at the door bottom and usually smell the door knob as well then I have the decoy lightly aggatate, pop the door and give the dog a quick bite. Once the dog indicates on the doors himself or just a tad of encouragement I have the decoy move back from the doors and the handler opens the door- now the dog has to go deeper into the rooms to get the bite. I then leave some of the doors open or partially open so the dog can go in on his own, the decoy may be at various depths in these rooms or behind closed doors. At this stage is when I start using passive decoys and different light levels in the hall and different rooms.
I firmly believe in building the dog to use its nose first not to rely on its eyes, this does this. Have fun
 
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