:lol: @ Martin! My GSD has been trained to ignore any type of critters. My terriers, on the other hand, could keep me well fed if I liked squirrel, bird, mole, rat, etc. :lol: :wink:
Squirrels take revenge!
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Thankfully, no! People have no idea how dangerous it can be for a dog that gets skunked underground. The can seem fine a day later, then dead a week later. It causes toxic shock. When we (terrier hunters) get a dog skunked, it's put on an IV asap to flush their system.
The dogs that don't avoid the skunks after even a slight lesson, get retired. Like your grandog with the pin pig, some just wont quit. Even when skunked from 6-8inches away. I've dug dogs out of the ground that were temporarily blinded and gasping for air, and STILL trying to get the skunk. That's where earth work loses the fun.
My two hunting partners were a Pathologist and a Veterinarian. We had everything covered. :wink:
Martin, I never allowed it to happen from the very start. When I did his scent work in SAR, we often had squrrels, rabbits in live trap cages in the field, or within sight of a cadaver tube. We didn't give corrections, just refocused the dog on the task. Ignore bad behaviour, reward good behaviour. These, all being steup situations, the dogs/ ups were always on lead. It wasn't hard to discourage them at a very young age. With my dog, he was super handler sensitive and was very consious of my displeasure. Just two days ago, a baby rabbit came out of a clump of hostas in my front yard. It was RIGHT under Thunders nose. I gave a simple AAAAAGH! and he imediately stopped.
I do have to say, the hardest thing for me was to rember I wasnt training terriers. I NEVER passed a chance for a good chase with them.
ps. You don't want to be like me. At 60, it's starting to hurt entirely to much. :lol: :lol: :wink:
I do have to say, the hardest thing for me was to rember I wasnt training terriers.
I NEVER passed a chance for a good chase with them. ps. You don't want to be like me. At 60, it's starting to hurt entirely to much. :lol: :lol: :wink:
The Voice of Reason :wink:Connie Sutherland said:
Yes, you're so right Connie! Gregg Tawney gave this same advice when he
evaluated Sable for me. Being so young, only her prey drive & social skills
where put up to the test (duh
). She passed with OK drive (I need to REALLY work on this :!: ) and being very good socially.
You're almost line for line saying exactly what he told me about the things I'd
learn, and how to apply them to an eventual new pup.
- The cost of a new dog dish: $3.95
- The cost of a indoor kennel: $68.95
- The cost of a vet visit: $50.00 and up
- The cost of advice from this board: Priceless!
I'm getting this visual of Connie with piece of hotdog stuck between her eyes. :lol: :lol: :lol: Sorry Connie! :wink:
The food can actually be held at your side. Sooner or later, out of frustration, the dog will make eye contact with you. IMMEDIATELY give a marker "good", clicker, whatever, and treat. Don't try for any marathon eye contact at first. A few seconds a dy is all you need till the dog really undrstands. Eventually, the dog will keep eye contact even if your hands are held out to your sides, in front of you, over the dogs head, etc.
Martin, which DVD do you have?
Sorry Connie! :wink: The food can actually be held at your side. Sooner or later, out of frustration, the dog will make eye contact with you. IMMEDIATELY give a marker "good", clicker, whatever, and treat. Don't try for any marathon eye contact at first. A few seconds a dy is all you need till the dog really undrstands. Eventually, the dog will keep eye contact even if your hands are held out to your sides, in front of you, over the dogs head, etc.
Martin, which DVD do you have?
This is good feedback and thanks for this tip...this is one of the skills I let get really bad during the winter. I spend a lot of time walking up and down my neighborhood with some dried lamb lung held up to my forehead. :lol: There's only a few degrees of seperation between dog training and your basic satanic ritual.Bob Scott said:I'm getting this visual of Connie with piece of hotdog stuck between her eyes. :lol: :lol: :lol:
The food can actually be held at your side. Sooner or later, out of frustration, the dog will make eye contact with you. IMMEDIATELY give a marker "good", clicker, whatever, and treat. Don't try for any marathon eye contact at first. A few seconds a dy is all you need till the dog really undrstands. Eventually, the dog will keep eye contact even if your hands are held out to your sides, in front of you, over the dogs head, etc.
Martin, which DVD do you have?
You are forgetting which dog I am talking about. "Sooner or later" could have been a month! :lol:Bob Scott said:I'm getting this visual of Connie with piece of hotdog stuck between her eyes. :lol: :lol: :lol:
The food can actually be held at your side. Sooner or later, out of frustration, the dog will make eye contact with you.....
But yes, with the average-or-above-intelligence dog, I think that eventually the dog would get unfixated on the treat and look at your face for a clue.
With Pomfret: yes.
With Leo: no. I finally moved the treat right to my face before he accidentally caught contact with my eyes, then I marked like a nut and gave it to him.
Now he looks at my eyes about half the time (3 days in).
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