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:lol: @ Martin! My GSD has been trained to ignore any type of critters. My terriers, on the other hand, could keep me well fed if I liked squirrel, bird, mole, rat, etc. :lol: :wink:
 

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Bob Scott said:
:lol: @ Martin! My GSD has been trained to ignore any type of critters. My terriers, on the other hand, could keep me well fed if I liked squirrel, bird, mole, rat, etc. :lol: :wink:
..........porcupine.........
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Connie Sutherland said:
..........porcupine.........
LOL!

Bob Scott said:
My GSD has been trained to ignore any type of critters...
@ what age did you start? My Sable (6 months in 1 week) rips my arm off
to get at birds on our walks!

I do the re-direct thing, but that's been going on for awhile now. A hard
correction seems more appropriate - although I won't do those (their gonna
be for bad manners anyway) until 8 months - the age I've been adviced to do
so.

So, what do I do to, "be like you Bob"?
 

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:eek: Thankfully, no! :D
People have no idea how dangerous it can be for a dog that gets skunked underground. The can seem fine a day later, then dead a week later. It causes toxic shock. When we (terrier hunters) get a dog skunked, it's put on an IV asap to flush their system.
The dogs that don't avoid the skunks after even a slight lesson, get retired. Like your grandog with the pin pig, some just wont quit. Even when skunked from 6-8inches away. I've dug dogs out of the ground that were temporarily blinded and gasping for air, and STILL trying to get the skunk. That's where earth work loses the fun.
My two hunting partners were a Pathologist and a Veterinarian. We had everything covered. :wink:
 

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Martin, I never allowed it to happen from the very start. When I did his scent work in SAR, we often had squrrels, rabbits in live trap cages in the field, or within sight of a cadaver tube. We didn't give corrections, just refocused the dog on the task. Ignore bad behaviour, reward good behaviour. These, all being steup situations, the dogs/ ups were always on lead. It wasn't hard to discourage them at a very young age. With my dog, he was super handler sensitive and was very consious of my displeasure. Just two days ago, a baby rabbit came out of a clump of hostas in my front yard. It was RIGHT under Thunders nose. I gave a simple AAAAAGH! and he imediately stopped.
I do have to say, the hardest thing for me was to rember I wasnt training terriers. :eek: I NEVER passed a chance for a good chase with them. :D

ps. You don't want to be like me. At 60, it's starting to hurt entirely to much. :lol: :lol: :wink:
 

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I might add, Thunder has made me a big, big, big, did I say HUGE believer in very early puppy imprinting before the 12-14wk age. I've said this a gazillion times, but Thunder has had almost NO physical corrections. He was two in Janurary.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Bob Scott said:
We didn't give corrections, just refocused the dog on the task. Ignore bad behaviour, reward good behaviour.
So, I'm on the right track with redirecting Sable back on, "The Walk"?

Bob Scott said:
I might add, Thunder has made me a big, big, big, did I say HUGE believer in very early puppy imprinting before the 12-14wk age. I've said this a gazillion times, but Thunder has had almost NO physical corrections. He was two in Janurary.
I wish, I wish, I wish, I wish, I wish, I wish, I wish, I wish, I wish, I wish,
I wish, I wish, I wish, I wish, I wish, I wish, I wish, I wish, I wish, I wish,
I wish, that I'd been a member of the Other forum (this one was
not around back then) when I first got my Sable at 12 weeks. I just started
getting involved in "Specialized Training" - as Connie always puts it :wink:
after I had her awhile. So, no real imprinting could be done :roll:
 

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But now you are learning things you would not have learned the other way! There's room to learn all kinds of stuff.

Like right now in my life I have never had a puppy, period, so I know a lot about rehabilitating a badly-trained or untrained adult (otherwise they would probably not have been up for adoption or in need of rescue).

I feel sure none of it will be useless when I do have a puppy, and none of what you are learning will be useless when you have another puppy. Right?
 

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I'll give the same example that I just gave conniie in a PM.
At our club, the dogs do what we call "earn the turn" for a bite. this, of course, is after the dog has learned to focus on your eyes. We heel away from the helper. When the dog makes ey contact with the handler, we turn SLIGHTLY towards the helper. More eye contact and we keep turning. If the dog looks at the helper, we again, move away from the helper. It doesn't take long before the dogs are stareing a hole in us to make us turn towards the helper.
NOW! this has been criticised because people will say " I want the dog to focus on the helper, NOT me. In Schutzhund, the only time the dog is heeling and needed to focus on the helper is during the side and back transport, and the courage test. With a good dog, I guarantee that one or two pokes in the ribs from the helper, will keep him focused on the helper during the side transport.
The back transport is the same thing. It starts out very close. If the dogs attention goes to the handler to much, the helper does random attacks on the dog and handler. Again! It wont take long for a good dog to keep his eyes on the helper.
The courage test! Our dogs sit at our side WITHOUT being held. If the dog breaks, the handler gives a FOOEY, the helper goes passive, and the dog gets no satisfaction.
Thunder is just now ready to go for his SchHI, and the helper can taunt, scream, crack the whip, call him, give a bite command, run at us, and Thunder will NOT break untill I give the bite command. He's learned the reward can ONLY COME FROM ME!
In the blind! My dog liked to come in really nasty and snarling. This is ignored UNTIL he starts into the correct hold and bark. This is started with us holding the long line, the helper rewards a strong bark with a bite. If the dog isn't barking correctly, the helper backs up. Each bark brings the helper another step closer to the dog. Soon, the dog is barking with the correct power and rithym. He gets the bite.
All of these exercises have been done with NO corrections.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Connie Sutherland said:
But now you are learning things you would not have learned the other way! ...and none of what you are learning will be useless when you have another puppy. Right?
The Voice of Reason :wink:

Yes, you're so right Connie! Gregg Tawney gave this same advice when he
evaluated Sable for me. Being so young, only her prey drive & social skills
where put up to the test (duh :oops: ). She passed with OK drive (I need to REALLY
work on this :!: ) and being very good socially.

You're almost line for line saying exactly what he told me about the things I'd
learn, and how to apply them to an eventual new pup.

  • The cost of a new dog dish: $3.95
  • The cost of a indoor kennel: $68.95
  • The cost of a vet visit: $50.00 and up
  • The cost of advice from this board: Priceless!
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
I'm going to do a search on how to work with my dog to focus on me as
you've discribed on Mike's and Leerburg's forums.

I think that's where my Sable really lacks - or rather - that's the area I've
lacked in training her in.
 

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Martin Espericueta said:
I'm going to do a search on how to work with my dog to focus on me as
you've discribed on Mike's and Leerburg's forums.

I think that's where my Sable really lacks - or rather - that's the area I've
lacked in training her in.
Well, guess what? The DVD you are about to watch about basic obedience has a section on the dog focusing on you.

I'm working with my little dog now to look in my eyes instead of at the reward (my first focus step with him). He's about 50% there after three days, although as I told Bob, I almost had to glue the treat between my eyes like a third eyeball.

Focus when walking is easier, for me, because if you change direction, etc., the dog learns fast to watch you and not be gazing around for diversions! LOL!
 

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I'm getting this visual of Connie with piece of hotdog stuck between her eyes. :lol: :lol: :lol: :oops: Sorry Connie! :wink:
The food can actually be held at your side. Sooner or later, out of frustration, the dog will make eye contact with you. IMMEDIATELY give a marker "good", clicker, whatever, and treat. Don't try for any marathon eye contact at first. A few seconds a dy is all you need till the dog really undrstands. Eventually, the dog will keep eye contact even if your hands are held out to your sides, in front of you, over the dogs head, etc.
Martin, which DVD do you have?
 

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Bob Scott said:
I'm getting this visual of Connie with piece of hotdog stuck between her eyes. :lol: :lol: :lol: :oops: Sorry Connie! :wink:
The food can actually be held at your side. Sooner or later, out of frustration, the dog will make eye contact with you. IMMEDIATELY give a marker "good", clicker, whatever, and treat. Don't try for any marathon eye contact at first. A few seconds a dy is all you need till the dog really undrstands. Eventually, the dog will keep eye contact even if your hands are held out to your sides, in front of you, over the dogs head, etc.
Martin, which DVD do you have?
This is good feedback and thanks for this tip...this is one of the skills I let get really bad during the winter. I spend a lot of time walking up and down my neighborhood with some dried lamb lung held up to my forehead. :lol: There's only a few degrees of seperation between dog training and your basic satanic ritual.
 

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Bob Scott said:
I'm getting this visual of Connie with piece of hotdog stuck between her eyes. :lol: :lol: :lol: :oops: Sorry Connie! :wink:
The food can actually be held at your side. Sooner or later, out of frustration, the dog will make eye contact with you.....
You are forgetting which dog I am talking about. "Sooner or later" could have been a month! :lol:

But yes, with the average-or-above-intelligence dog, I think that eventually the dog would get unfixated on the treat and look at your face for a clue.

With Pomfret: yes.

With Leo: no. I finally moved the treat right to my face before he accidentally caught contact with my eyes, then I marked like a nut and gave it to him.

Now he looks at my eyes about half the time (3 days in).
 

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You know the first time the guys at SchH taught us to drop treats from our mouths to our dog I thought they were nuts. But now I see why they had us do it and I am SO thankful we started that at 4 months with him! Now a bark and hold is super easy (b/c he also had to be in a proper sit).

The drawback is that he thinks if he sits in front of me and looks really hard at my eyes a treat will magically fall from my mouth :roll: .

We have a horrible time at heeling these days, though. My doggie needs REHAB.
 

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Stacia Porter said:
You know the first time the guys at SchH taught us to drop treats from our mouths to our dog I thought they were nuts. But now I see why they had us do it and I am SO thankful we started that at 4 months with him! Now a bark and hold is super easy (b/c he also had to be in a proper sit).

The drawback is that he thinks if he sits in front of me and looks really hard at my eyes a treat will magically fall from my mouth :roll: .

We have a horrible time at heeling these days, though. My doggie needs REHAB.
Why the horrible heeling?
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
Bob Scott said:
Martin, which DVD do you have?
I believe it's: Basic Dog Obedience - Video 302 - 1 Hr. 50 Min. if I'm
not mistaken. It'll be here hopefully anyday now. It's actually on loan from
one of our very own members! Thanks again you-know-who-you-are!

Can I say who you are ? :wink:
 

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Been pm'n with you-know-who-you -are. :lol:
I now realize that mine is the older version video. I'm going to get the update DVD version.
 
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