ok. i was working some of our county dogs last week and they have a couple of "hand biters" when on the suit. i had once heard of cutting up a plastic 5 gallon paint jug into strips and drilling holes on the sides and then lacing them together with string. i was thinking of doing that and then putting it on the ends of the arms on the suit to get the dogs to target higher. i hadn't thought of tooth problems. now i'm re-thinking using that and i might just have to go down to the hardware store to see if i can find some thick rubber tiles :wink:Selena van Leeuwen said:The "kappen" are homemade from a very thick rubber floortile. On this material a dogs slips of/can´t bite properly into the suit so it will choose the right place on the suit. The material is soft, do not use hard plastic, this of possible toothfractures.
yeah, that's what i was originally thinking (the plastic bucket is similar to PVC), but then selena threw out the whole teeth damage thing. have many times have you used PVC for this andres and have you ever seen tooth damage from it?Andres Martin said:Tim, PVC works well too.
then why bother with any device if you're placing the dog? i thought the whole point of putting an undesireable bite surface on was so that the dog could "self discover" which we all know is a much more powerful and longer lasting lesson than "do it this way because i make you or i tell you".Andres Martin said:NO, Tim...because targeting starts really close up, with the dog on a harness, the decoy seems to struggle to get away, the dog is slowly gaining ground, frustrated, I "place" him on target, and he finds the right place. There's no impact ever. Then it's a matter of increasing the distance.
same way here in the learning stage, BUT when there is put pressure on the dog (voice, decoy going towards decoy, stick hit) some dogs get pissed and want to battle..what can result in mid chest or mid back bites (forget the right place)..thats why we use the "kappen" to learn to dog not ever to bite there and for decoy protection.Andres Martin said:NO, Tim...because targeting starts really close up, with the dog on a harness, the decoy seems to struggle to get away, the dog is slowly gaining ground, frustrated, I "place" him on target, and he finds the right place. There's no impact ever. Then it's a matter of increasing the distance.
Tim Martens said:ok. i was working some of our county dogs last week and they have a couple of "hand biters" when on the suit. quote]
How effective have you or others been in correcting hand-biting? Has re-targetting held up under pressure? Most hand-biting I've seen (my dog included ) seems to stem from a lack of confidence, and I worry that all my work will go right out the window if too much pressure is applied.
ok. i get what you're saying. help guide with the initial contact, then if he re-grips down to an undesired target, he gets a mouth full of PVC.Andres Martin said:You can only go so far trying to "place" the dog. Also, the decoy is a factor. They don't always move exactly as you want. There's a bunch of stuff going on at the same time. Targeting is taught fairly close up. There's no need to teach the dog to target at a long distance from the start. If you start up close, and increase the distance, you'll have taught the dog where you want him to bite, and he'll have discovered that he can't be shifting the bite. On a full out, long distance bite, with a very fast dog, I would REALLY hesitate to use anything but suit...or meat.