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only one complaint i had about the one i bought was that the studs on my innotek collar were longer than the nuts that came with the device. as a result, when tightened down, the studs break off the top of the plastic cover on the nuts. choosing the path of least resistance, the current then just escapes out of the studs and doesn't even go through the "grid". i don't know if the studs on innotek collars are much longer than others, i just know they were too long. that situation could have been avoided if a couple of plastic washers were included...
 

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This rig seems awesome to me. Have people fitted it onto a Dogtra 1700NCP? Any issues with contact point length? Tim, did you upfit your new collar with this?
 

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Woody Taylor said:
This rig seems awesome to me. Have people fitted it onto a Dogtra 1700NCP? Any issues with contact point length? Tim, did you upfit your new collar with this?
to be honest, i have no idea where the thing is now. after the nuts broke, i took it off and then it went who knows where after that...
 

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Tim Martens said:
Woody Taylor said:
This rig seems awesome to me. Have people fitted it onto a Dogtra 1700NCP? Any issues with contact point length? Tim, did you upfit your new collar with this?
to be honest, i have no idea where the thing is now. after the nuts broke, i took it off and then it went who knows where after that...
Ah, just wondering...Lou, can you clarify?

Andres, to your question, it seems great to me and dispersing out the contact points strikes me as a good way to keep the dog from getting collar-wise. A very informed guy told me that it also greatly extends the time you can keep a collar on the dog, no necrosis stuff. All good things. No direct experience with it, getting my first collar right now, but I'm gonna put it on this assuming it fits out to that Dogtra model.
 

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Lou Castle said:
Tim the newest versions come with replacement studs so that to-long ones don't break through the top of the acorn nuts.

I've put mine onto a 1200NCP and the 1700NCP.
mine came with replacement studs as well. problem was that the studs in the receiver on the innotek are not removable. again, a couple of plastic washers would have worked. knowing that, i'll probably try and find it and then find some plastic washers (i don't know if i'll need them for the dogtra)...
 

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Tim Martens said:
mine came with replacement studs as well. problem was that the studs in the receiver on the innotek are not removable.
Well that sux. I don't know much about the Innoteks as evidenced by this exchange. LOL.

Tim Martens said:
(i don't know if i'll need them for the dogtra)...
I didn't need them for either the 1200 or the 1700 but it's probably best to test each collar to see if they're necessary.
 

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Andres Martin said:
Tim...cut the studs some.

I've had no problems with my adapter at all.

I wonder if people in Europe have begun to use them. psst...Selena?
i didn't want to take the chance cutting them and then have the threads be screwed up which would render the collar almost useless. washers would work fine if i turn retarded and ever buy another innotek...
 

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Hi Tim,
I had to cut my Innotek also.
What I did was go to Orchard Supply and purchase a die that was the same size as the studs (6/32nds I think) it was only about $5.00, I threaded the die on first then cut the stud when you back the die off it cleans the threads right up.
 

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Andres Martin said:
I wonder if people in Europe have begun to use them. psst...Selena?
´till your first post on this topic I had never heard of it....had to look at the link that mr. frost posted before I knew wth you were talking about.

Can´t see the advantages right now, to be honest.
Our dogs don´t wear their e-collars all day (and aren´t used on every dog..only 1 at the moment), stim 10-20-30-40 on the dogtra 1200 is low enough..
to comparise Anne the first and only time I used an e-collar (old tritronic pro 50 heavier correction than the dogtra) gave a reaction on 4(out of 5)
 

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The problem I have with the e-collar is that Cujo's neck fur is really thick, both I and my trainer who has fitted hundreds of e-collars, were both getting really frustrated because none of the e-collar brands we tried worked on Cujo right away, no matter how much we fuss with the contacts or wiggle it around or wet his fur or anything... the only way to get an e-collar to work on Cujo is to put it on an hour before I need it and let him run and run and run till it settles into his fur by itself.

Do you think these contact grids would help with this problem?
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
Mike, yes.

Selena...advantages: you do not have to put the collar on as tight as with regular contacts...and so the dog (I think) thinks it's more of a regular collar; you don't have to mess with it to get good and reliable contact every time, because it doesn't need to be in direct contact with the skin; it doesn't poke into the dog at all; it's pretty cheap; and most important...IT LOOKS HIGH TECH. 8)

Also...if you get one, your competitors will be wondering what that thing is, and will want to imitate you. You'll be cool-er.
 

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Andres Martin said:
Selena...advantages: you do not have to put the collar on as tight as with regular contacts...and so the dog (I think) thinks it's more of a regular collar; you don't have to mess with it to get good and reliable contact every time, because it doesn't need to be in direct contact with the skin; it doesn't poke into the dog at all; it's pretty cheap; and most important...IT LOOKS HIGH TECH. 8)

I WANT him to know he´s wearing it..and that i´m the one correcting.. :twisted:
i dont care about high tech...thats a guy thing i guess..cheap is always good..still dutch..

Also...if you get one, your competitors will be wondering what that thing is, and will want to imitate you. You'll be cool-er.
I dont want to be cool.. i want a good trained dog.. in one way or another..
we use different kind of correcting tools, not only e- stims, and change all kinds of correcting tools a lot or use it together. That´s the difference I think.
 
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