I'd like to hear how everyone teaches different exercises, from ob to bitework, i know everyone is different, so, throw some ideas out here and try to be detailed because i'm not to smart ,
AL
This should probably be carved in stone for all who adopt or rescue! For me, the way to teach the dog to come is to make it 100% desirable for the first *many* times s/he's called (once bonded, which is also a great point)........there's me, with toys and treats, and there's............well, there's nothing better around, so here s/he comes!
Biggest mistake I made with my dog was letting what little food drive she had go away. It was dumb. We do all our play/walking/interaction/training (usually) very early morning and late at night...in this cold MN, I ended up not carrying around the treat bag. She's okay with object rewards but food is not her first impulse, at all. I really regret this. Trying to rebuild it as we speak. She's just never been into food that much...I posted in another thread that her treats (GOOD ones, solid gold turkey jerky, solid gold lamb lung, some locally sold liver stuff) are right up on top of her crate. She leaves them alone, always.
Unless my toddler has them. That kid fed her almost a full pound of turkey jerky one night over the baby fence...argh...she was only four months at the time. They bonded very well, but man, what a messy yard the next day.
It's funny, people all talk about drive building like Bernard Flinks and the other folks that build drive for toys thru frustration -- but few people realize that you can build food drive the same way. My dog goes crazy for food now, while when he was younger, even though he had food drive, it was never very strong.
The smellier the food the more interest he has in it, hotdogs, freeze dried liver, cheese etc work great... but what I do with hotdogs is, well, firstly I teach him an \"eat\" command so he knows what I'm trying to get him to do... then I sit down on the bed or on the couch or the floor n call him to me (ha, if I have food in my hand there's not much calling involved), then tell him to sit/lay down/give paw n stuff, then I put the piece of hotdog in a closed fist n tell him his \"eat\" command, n let him nudge his nose at my hand... if the dog is so low in food drive that he gives up, open the hand a little bit so he can't get it but at least feels as though he has a chance, but keep denying it until he's really trying... how long you deny it means you need to read YOUR dog and decide at what point your dog is likely to give up, n reward by opening your hand before he gives up. Keep doing this over n over every day, it really builds the dogs \"hotdog drive\" Because the dog knows that if he keeps trying he gets the reward, n because he can't have the reward he wants it even more.
To me food drive is very important, I love training with food... but I don't rely on food to train. If I don't have food my dog still has to listen, but it really builds speed and motivation and it's an easier and quicker reward to mark good behavior than playing tug, then having to let the dog win the tug, then hope you get the tug back from the dog
I agree 100% about the food drive Mike. ALL my obedience starts with food. Even dogs with mediocre drives will kick into gear on an empty stomach. Until some dogs get through the learning phase, toys/balls. kongs, etc, puts them WAY over the top to learn well.
Most dogs have something that trips their trigger. Food and toys are the most used, and probably the most common.
I've heard a story (don't know how true) about a dog that had to do his whole Sch III routine before he could breed a bitch. Now THAT'S drive! :wink:
I love this stuff, there are very few posts I read that I don't learn something or get a new idea and put a personal spin on, or get a satisfying laugh from when Jeff O. posts one of his responses!
I'd like to hear how everyone teaches different exercises, from ob to bitework, i know everyone is different, so, throw some ideas out here and try to be detailed because i'm not to smart ,
AL
Oh Lord...GIVE ME STRENGTH!!!
Al, we do group obedience in a circle and do lots of crossing drills and dog "platz" moves. Dominance issues are then toned down, blending in some of the AKC CGC elements has also been useful.
Bite work through air scenting and short sends into hedgerows shows how well the dog can work from the handler. When the handler is on site, we slip the sleeve and let the dog win. If the dog has an issue about going into the brush, we stand out and give them a bite.
Finding a small set of woods and doing it this time of year to avoid bugs is good. Bite suit work on bleachers is something some dogs stress on. But when you them them that "we" are working on free Dallas Cowboy seats, the dog understands!
Good Luck!
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