I'd like to hear how everyone teaches different exercises, from ob to bitework, i know everyone is different, so, throw some ideas out here and try to be detailed because i'm not to smart ,
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Bob just told me something I was not attending to: Shoulders (body) forward when I reward.Bob Scott said:Everything starts with the attention exercise at heel position. It takes a little patience at first, but the split second the dog makes eye contact, a food reward is given, with a marker for the behavior. \"Good\". The treat is ALWAY given in the sight line between my eyes and the dog's eyes. I use food because I think many dogs have a hard time focusing with toy in sight. Once the dog is solid, and really understands the exercise, then, and only then do I use the toy as a reward. Of course this varies with every dog. One thing I consider EXTREAMLY important is the site picture you give the dog. Always stand straight, shoulders forward. If you turn your shoulders to give the reward, THAT'S the site picture the dog associates the reward with. This, IMHO, is what causes a lot of dogs to do the wrap around heeling. That and giving the reward with the right hand. Only after you have good solid focus form the dog, can ou take the first step. Only one step, then guide the dog back into the sit with the food treat brought back over his head, and slightly to his left. Going slightly to the left will keep the dog from comming around to your front. One step at a time, sit, one step at a time, sit, etc. Trying to take to many steps, at first, will just set the dog up for failure. When that one step, sit, one step sit, etc is solid, start adding a few more steps.
LOL! I NEVER should have announced that I was about your age!!Bob Scott said:Just goes to show you Connie. Us old dogs CAN learn new tricks.
I said that with my outloud voice didn't I. :wink:
If you were helping with a dog who didn't have an e-collar, what would you do at that rebellious stage? What I have done is start all over with the treats in the enclosed place. Any better ideas?Selena van Leeuwen said:That´s the only command I teach till they´re 8 mo. Calling there name and give some meat/cheese (in closed area). They will learn come very quick. Later on with a long leash in open area, if command is clear and is done always, they´re totally free. Usually they need a reminder if they´r about 9 mo. :roll:
At that time the KNOW what the commands mean, but just won´t obey it, I work with an e-collor. They quickly will remember what come ment again :wink:
So when you say \"drop the treat\" -- this opens a new area in Ob training for me. I have always hand-fed the reward, requiring \"sit\" almost always for the treat, but with a verbal marker instantly. (Command, obedience, \"good boy,\" sit, treat.)Tim Martens said:what i've used to \"cheat\" is to keep the food treat in my mouth. when we come to a halt in the proper position and dog is looking up at me, i'll drop the treat. key is to get treats that don't taste too bad to humans!
OK, I get it now! You're not letting the dog scramble around for the dropped treat!Tim Martens said:oh yeah, this only works well with a dog who can catch the treat. if the dog can't catch the treat, then he may break the sit to pick up the treat.
I have also done what Tim describes. First taught the dog to catch treats........took a week , evry day a few times, then did the food in the mouth trick.........grilled sausage meat works great.Tim Martens said:what i've used to \"cheat\" is to keep the food treat in my mouth. when we come to a halt in the proper position and dog is looking up at me, i'll drop the treat. key is to get treats that don't taste too bad to humans!
OMG what a hilarious thing this was with the Pug! We settled on a treat we would both eat, which was easy (since there is nothing he will not eat).Hil Harrison said:...Tim Martens said:what i've used to \"cheat\" is to keep the food treat in my mouth. when we come to a halt in the proper position and dog is looking up at me, i'll drop the treat. key is to get treats that don't taste too bad to humans!
I have also done what Tim describes. First taught the dog to catch treats........took a week , evry day a few times, then did the food in the mouth trick.........grilled sausage meat works great.
Connie Sutherland said:Tim Martens said:oh yeah, this only works well with a dog who can catch the treat. if the dog can't catch the treat, then he may break the sit to pick up the treat.
My Sable does this when I drop treats between her front legs on a platz. Funny\"Connie Sutherland\" said:OK, I get it now! You're not letting the dog scramble around for the dropped treat!
I have to train myself :!:\"Connie Sutherland\" said:I guess it also has to be a handler who can drop a treat with some kind of aim.......
yes Mike thats the trick to put a few in your mouth at once. I forgot to add that on my post. Maybe you could just warm the hotdogs up beforehand :lol: :lol: :lol:Mike Schoonbrood said:The trainer at a Schutzhund club here in Orlando showed me how skilled she was with dropping treats from her mouth.... she could put a whole bunch of small chopped up pieces of hotdog in her mouth, n literally spit them into the dogs mouth at a short distance with perfect aim. I've often thought about doing something like this with Cujo, but I just have issues with putting cold hotdog in my mouth LOL.
Hello Bob,Bob Scott said:The, hands down, best time to train this is when the pup is less then 12-14wks old....
This is for Bob, and I too always want to hear his answers, but I want to jump in and say YES! I've never had a puppy (since I was a kid), and treats and praise have sure worked for me.Martin Espericueta said:Hello Bob,Bob Scott said:The, hands down, best time to train this is when the pup is less then 12-14wks old....
What would you suggest to someone who rescues/adopts a juvenile/adult dog? It would seem that the food work, would work - right?