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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I have 24- 8 inch pipe nipples (threaded PVC so don't get dirty now) which I am going to make into scent tubes

My past experience with drilling PVC is not getting a smooth entrance and exit hole - any good suggestions? I don't own a drill press (hmm) - Yes I want them to look pretty and not poke the dogs in the mouth and to be smooth on the inside. I figure a 1/4 inch bit but not sure if some drill cleaner than others?

12 pipes are 1 inch schedule 80
12 pipes are 2 inch schedule 80
 

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I'd use a high rpm drill (I use milkwaukee but that's a chevy/ford thing...just a real drill at high rpm/low torque) :wink: to drill small pilots (a bit in a dremel works well for this too) then finish off...deburr with sandpaper or a dremel (hint hint if you don't have a dremel!!!).

I don't know if masonry bits would be best?
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Do have a Dremel - was going to start pilot holes with it so the drill bit does not try to dance all over the place.... the thing for deburring does not look big enough though - maybe it is.....I will look when I go to the store.

I would do the whole darned thing with my Dremel tool if there was a bit big enough :)

Thanks
 

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Three choices of bits, Brad point, forsner, spade bit. All three have a sharp point on the tip that will get the hole started without drifting.
The brad point or the spade bit would be the cheaper of the three. Probably the best for your needs also.
You could also take a hot nail and start a hole so a regular drill wont drift.
 

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Oh, yeah, you are right, Mike. Don't know why I said that. I was thinking of this nice set of Blue-Mol tips I have that I used on my stucco. Carbide tips, really sharp. Not the blocked off masonry stuff.
 

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PVC pipe is a pain to drill a clean hole in. I usually clean up the edges of the hole with a utility knife.
How about cutting a series of slots 1/3 - 1/2 way through with a saw, like a hack saw or something with 8 or more teeth/inch?
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
I did a test run last night with a small pilot hole followed by one of these to open up the hole

http://www.dremel.com/en-us/attachm...accessory-detail.htm?H=188558&G=66333&I=69831

And got surprisingly clean holes - but I did it with my schedule 40, not sure how it will behave in the thicker schedule 80.

The PVC coated the stone but after a few runs it got hot enough to fall off. (Another problem with the stuff melting on whatever you are cutting - I used a lower speed (10) setting.

I know what you mean about PVC as I have some done with a drill and it is not nice. This would mean I have to use two tools for each hole but If I had to sand I would anyway.

I am having a hard time visualizing the slots.....it sounds interesting but I don't know. Have not seen one that way.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
I made 8 tubes last night and found the Dremel to be painstakingly slow and reverted to the drill.

OW - women's wrists and hand muscles - (My wrist is about half as thick as my husbands)

Anway - pilot holes with Dremel, 1/4 high speed drill bit, and a stout knife did the trick. But getting a hole in the cap for a throw rope - bit more of a challenge - if you put it in the tube the torgue is so high that you can't get the cap back off -- and you can't hold it.

I need to find a hand held reamer with a t-handle like the one we used when I was a bicycle mechanic - we would use it to enlarge holes in metal. Can't seem to find one anywhere at an auto parts store or a hardware store.

http://www.tools-plus.com/irw11214.html

Like this.
 

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YOu can get a counter sink for a drill. Also a tapered drill bit. Both can be used for enlarging the hole. :wink:
 

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After you've made the pilot hole you should be able to go to a larger bit without having to use the grindstone.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
I did, just using the reamer for cleanup - found one at Sears
You would have thought I was looking for the Holy Grail.
 
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