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Hey guys.

I have two Alaskan Malamutes, brother and sister, turning 3 this March.

As soon as they were old enough, we started training to pull a kickbike and I have also done a lot of running with them.

The problem is, ever since we started, as soon as they start proper running, they start play fighting and get entangled in the lines. This happens everytime we are out running.

I've tried everything from ignoring it, scolding them, praising them for the when they are focused, but nothing seems to help.

Anyone got any tips and tricks I'll be very happy to hear.

/Bone
 

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Hi! I'm not a dog owner at this time, but as a former dog-adoption coordinator at a no-kill shelter I'd say that you shouldn't, at that age, expect them to run with you (meaning the three of you) and not tie you all in knots. As nobody seems to have commented on the open forum for all of this time, I figured you won't mind if I put in my two annoying cents :) A lot of dogs, even border collies, are still (psychological-maturity-wise) puppies at ages 2-3 yrs. It's hard to believe that but it's true. No matter how sweet the dog was, we had so many surrenders coming in at ages 2-4. Long lanky sweet labs who are still wild and chewing everything at age 2 are still puppies, huskies and malamutes need to run for hours a day though your malamutes are less likely to escape, Newfies are just nuts, mixed breeds still puppies too with unpredictable behaviors... It didn't seem to matter whether it was a pure or mixed breed there was a problem in owners who saw size as proof of maturity. This is such a hard time to, in some places, find training workshops in some areas, but I'm sure that that is always a good idea, depending on what type of training you seek. Is your dog going to be a domestic family dog only? A working dog? Sometimes those can interfere with each other, but I am not an expert on that. I'd say this: allot separate times for them until they can handle being and behaving well on a leash while having you all to themselves. Many times with no time to spare I made it happen while several dogs were still waiting in kennels--we'd let them out for relieving themselves and checking the doggy news, but then I'd get them back in for feeding, removing them after chores to do real exercise and play time. Some needed serious socialization time but it sounds like yours just need time to be un-siblinged and alone with you so you can build that relationship with each individually--and get to know what each dog's quirks are. Some dogs just can't be expected to be walked two at a time. Our volunteer trainer who worked with our difficult or challenged dogs took them each one at a time--so again, it's clear that that individual time is important. One day you could hook them up to a sled, side by side... maybe! I love Malamutes by the way! Very jealous!
 

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Hey guys.

I have two Alaskan Malamutes, brother and sister, turning 3 this March.

As soon as they were old enough, we started training to pull a kickbike and I have also done a lot of running with them.

The problem is, ever since we started, as soon as they start proper running, they start play fighting and get entangled in the lines. This happens everytime we are out running.

I've tried everything from ignoring it, scolding them, praising them for the when they are focused, but nothing seems to help.

Anyone got any tips and tricks I'll be very happy to hear.

/Bone
. Let’s start at he beginning dogs pets don’t know language do saying “ don’t do this or that “ means nothing to the dog . Basically create a situation that the dog can win and get a reward treat or other . Look stvthe exercise . How can you control it and direct the dog . Some times you get a dog that is plain stubborn . So look at the dog . What does he seem to like . Dog treat? Pets? Praise ? Clicker trainers give the dog a sound as reward or signal that the dog did what was desired . Maybe he likes hot dog peicesmaybe liver anything that’s a treat you can add a word as a command but it needs to be very consistent as the dog only hears a sound for an action you need to connect this with reward or treat only give one command he has only one chance to correctly respond . Half a dozen commands just confuse the dog . Asvyounprogress hopefully the dog notifies a noise he needs to respond to in a certain way . It’s hard forvthe dog look at if some alien being was trying to teach you to fly his spaceship . You don’t even know his language let alone what things do . Or look at it if you could not see but only hear a foreign language . I had a trainer years ago that did this We got childcare chip ss reward. But commands were in German fog commands then we went to Czech commands . We started fight from the beginning down “ platz in German so the trainer took a hand then platz ????? Push down on shoulder untill you were down then try it again ha I got this reward choc chip lots of praise heel “ foos “ in German ?????? He takes your hand says fooos while moving. Oh this is easy that means go with him. . More chips we went through all the standard commands but only on command for a good action . You get the idea The pint is take the exercise apart so you can work on each piece I had many note books of commands and situations Part of this was looking at what the dog was showing fur osition tail. Ears , eyes , stance etc
 

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. Let’s start at he beginning dogs pets don’t know language do saying “ don’t do this or that “ means nothing to the dog . Basically create a situation that the dog can win and get a reward treat or other . Look stvthe exercise . How can you control it and direct the dog . Some times you get a dog that is plain stubborn . So look at the dog . What does he seem to like . Dog treat? Pets? Praise ? Clicker trainers give the dog a sound as reward or signal that the dog did what was desired . Maybe he likes hot dog peicesmaybe liver anything that’s a treat you can add a word as a command but it needs to be very consistent as the dog only hears a sound for an action you need to connect this with reward or treat only give one command he has only one chance to correctly respond . Half a dozen commands just confuse the dog . Asvyounprogress hopefully the dog notifies a noise he needs to respond to in a certain way . It’s hard forvthe dog look at if some alien being was trying to teach you to fly his spaceship . You don’t even know his language let alone what things do . Or look at it if you could not see but only hear a foreign language . I had a trainer years ago that did this We got childcare chip ss reward. But commands were in German fog commands then we went to Czech commands . We started fight from the beginning down “ platz in German so the trainer took a hand then platz ????? Push down on shoulder untill you were down then try it again ha I got this reward choc chip lots of praise heel “ foos “ in German ?????? He takes your hand says fooos while moving. Oh this is easy that means go with him. . More chips we went through all the standard commands but only on command for a good action . You get the idea The pint is take the exercise apart so you can work on each piece I had many note books of commands and situations Part of this was looking at what the dog was showing fur osition tail. Ears , eyes , stance etc
I don’t like the term shock collar to me it means you don’t understand how an E collar works My original train would put the collar on you then “ show you “ just exactly what you did wrong an hour of this and I can guarantee you will have a good understanding how an Ecollsr works also most of use trainers ar pretty sensitive about terminology . AN E COLLAR is an electronics collar that allows you to give a reminder or help for the dog not a scare device . Using the E collar improperly would leave a pair of red marks on some very sensitive part of you you only made that mistake once .
 
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